Re: [flasah] DAVID IS New to Leatherworking
Hi Bruce,
I didn't mean to be argumentative, and I appreciate you telling me why my
belt did what it did. I just know that it was terrible for a couple of
days, then it got workable. I'm still so new at all this, and don't really
know about the differences of the leather, so, I do appreciate you telling
me what you did. I just don't want GB scaring off other new people, by
telling them so many things to do and not do. Mostly what not to do.
Diann
At 06:54 AM 8/14/2009 -0700, you wrote:
> Diann, jumbos that saddle
>skirts and briefcases can go in. for that excess moisture to leave
>before you start. How much moisture you put to the leather depends
>on a few things. Obviously the thicker the leather, the more you need to
>put on to start with. I want the moisture even all the way to the bottom.
>Leather is like a big dry sponge. put some moisture on the top or bottom
>and it will penetrate as far it can. If you just put it on the top and go
>to cutting, it will pull to the deeper layers and leave it too dry on top
>as you go. It also will not allow those lower fibers to soften and plump,
>and you tooling depth will not be what it can be. You have to add more for
>a relatively small project, and it is not as good as it could be. Another
>factor is where the leather came from on the hide. Denser leather from the
>butt and mid back will be tighter fibered. It takes a little longer for
>the moisture to penetrate and even out. Looser fibered areas like belly,
>shoulders, and neck will take the moisture faster but let it go faster to,
>unless slicked when damp to compress and tightern things up. A
>little experience with leather of the same tannage will tell you about how
>much moisture a leather needs, and what the surface should look like when
>you stick it in the bag. If it is still a little too damp when you take it
>out of the bag - add some moisture and leave it sit. Too dry, then spritz
>some on and let it sit for 20 minutes. Try some properly cased leather vs.
>quick cased and see which you prefer. Bruce Johnson
>www.brucejohnsonle
>Malachi 4:2
>"windshield'
>Stamey ----- Original Message ----- From: Diann Amberger To:
>flasah@yahoogroups.
>Subject: Re: [flasah] DAVID IS New to Leatherworking
> I will tell you my experience with wetting/casing a belt like GB
>said. I
>put it in the sink, left it till all the bubbles were gone, got it out,
put
>it in a plastic bag overnight in the fridge, got it out the next morning,
>it was slimy, and wayyyyyyyyyyy to wet to do anything with. I had to let
>it dry for hours before I could work it. I will never do that again.
>Since then, I've made 2 belts and about to start on another one, and I
like
>David said, take a sponge and wet the leather, then I stamp, carve, or do
>whatever I want to with it. This crap of having to put things in
>containers overnight is just that. I'm sure I'll get lots of flak for
>saying that, but that's my experience, and I'm sure GB will say because
>I've only been doing this about 5 months that I don't know what I'm
talking
>about, but, that's what happened to mine. I would hate for you to have the
>same experinece.
>Diann
>
>At 05:28 AM 8/14/2009 -0700, you wrote:
>> David Said " For a sponge. The
>>sponge is used for wetting the leather (also known as casing). "
>>
>>NO IT IS NOT .
>>
>> THAT IS CALLED WETTING THE LEATHER WITH A SPONGE.
>>
>> TO DETER EVAPORATION LONG ENOUGH FOR THE CELLS IN THE LEATHER TO GET
>>EVENLY MOIST.
>>
>> Al Stohlman mentions for *** 24 HOURS *** in his Belts Galore book but
>>overnight is just fine.
>>
>>Find a piece of marble to use instead of Granite unless you have a way to
>>check for radioactivity in the Granite...' This Old House' PBS series
>>talked about this lately for counter tops... and the contact distance and
>>time touching a leather working stone is way higher than what would be
for
>>a kitchen counter top.
>>
>>Gregory B. Moody
>>
>>--- On Fri, 8/14/09, goldwings98se@
>>wrote:
>>
>>From: goldwings98se@
>>Subject: Re: [flasah] Re: New to Leatherworking
>>To: flasah@yahoogroups.
>>Date: Friday, August 14, 2009, 12:04 AM
>>
>> Ahhh. Ok so you got the 7 tools. Did you
>>get a mallet also? For the granite slab I also have a rubber pad that
>>I put under the slab to protect the table top your putting the slab on.
>>Since you got the 7 tools and I assume a mallet, do not use a regular
>>hammer, ever. You will destroy the tools and likely punch through most
>>leather. As to the patters, I forgot to address that earlier. There are
>>free patterns on the Tandy site and you will find a number of them
around
>>the internet. You mentioned a wristband and the pattern was to big. You
>>might try going to kinkos and using a photo copier and reduce the pattern
>>by say 5% each time until you get it to the right size. The books I
>>mentioned also have a number of patterns. You might want to pick up some
>>tracing film when your at Tandy. That will allow you to transfer the
>>pattern from paper to the film that you can then transfer to the
leather.
>> Also a suggestion. Anytime you buy a project kit from Tandy make a
>>outline of all the parts on some type of heavy bond paper or cardboard.
>>That way you will always have the pattern and if, for example, a piece
>>gets screwed up beyond repair you can get just the leather and re-cut
the
>>piece. Go to the grocery store and buy an ordinary cellulous sponge and
>>cut it into 4 squares. Of course all of this is only suggestion and your
>>true best bet is go to the Tandy store and talk to them. Do not be afraid
>>to walk in and tell them you know nothing and need help. Think about
>>taking a couple of their classes if your sons are really interested. If
>>your ever unsure about an answer they gave you then don't hesitate to
> post
>>the question on here. David Sawyer
>>K1DRS -.- .---- -.. .-. ...
>>1998 Pearl Chaparral Beige Goldwing SE
>>http://www.davesgol dwing.com ----- Original Message ----- From:
>>Mommyland@
>>13, 2009 7:19 PM Subject: [flasah] Re: New to Leatherworking
>> I get the digest, so I'll try to reply to several of you in one
>> post.
>>> If you're reasonably near a Tandy store they have many options for
>>you. A new book that is directed at kids is "Kidcraft Leathercraft
>>Book," I recommend "Leather Crafting"
>> offer classes, as well as all materials needed.
>><>><<
>>>>Basic Leatherwork (part number 6008-00)
>>Leather Crafting (part number 61891-01)
>>Craftool Tech Tips (Part # 66056-00) by Al Stohlman. My opinion is most
>>any book by Al Stohlman is worth it and helpful.
>>
>><< I'll have to go with just the boys so we can talk to the
>>>>
>>If you have a granite countertop company nearby, you can ask for a
kitchen
>>sink cutout for a tooling surface. I have gotten some for boy scouts
>free, I
>>also got a couple larger ones for $1.00.
>>
>><< I'll have to check that out. Thanks!
>>
>>Kate
>>
>>
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