RE: [flasah] DAVID IS New to Leatherworking
In my years of working leather, I have used every method that everyone has mentioned.
All of them work, depending on whether you want to do your casing faster, slower, more
or less water, refridgerator, plastic bags, paper bags, glass, etc...In fact the only one I
haven't used was catching rain water instead of using tap water. I've also heard of using
distilled water because the worker didn't want the chemicals in their public water such
as chlorine, benzene, iron etc staining their leather. I'm sure with all the comments and
advice, that David will try some if not all and decide what method he prefers and perhaps
have some comments of his own. I enjoy these discussions, and it shows we all follow
a different drummer....This is a great country and a great group...Hank
To: flasah@yahoogroups.
From: DAmberger@centuryte
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 16:46:38 -0500
Subject: Re: [flasah] DAVID IS New to Leatherworking
Hi Bob,
What you say makes perfect sense. I guess I've just been too impatient to
get started carving and tooling. I'll try to slow down a little and use
your method and see if it works better for me. Thanks for sharing.
Diann
At 12:08 PM 8/14/2009 -0700, you wrote:
> Hi Diann, pretty wet piece of
>leather into the box and remove it next day and it would be ready to tool.
> ice chests, all which prevent ANY moisture from escaping....especially
>the plastic trash bags and zip loc bags. When you put your overly soaked
>leather in that sealed bag it did what it was meant to do....it preserved
>it....moisture and all! Your leather was not cased...it was just soaked!
>When I wet my leather, I pull it through a pan of water. I want to see
>bubbles coming out as it passes through the water.....but waiting until
>all the bubbles are gone is way too long. Once you start casing you will
>learn how much is enough. The same holds with learning what the leather
>should look like when properly cased. Almost it's natural color.....a cool
>feel to it when touched to your cheek....you will get the hang of it
>quickly once you get started. a little wetter going into the bag than
> what I want to begin tooling. The idea is for the moisture to be evenly
>distributed through the leather. Not wetter on the top than on the bottom.
>Properly casing your leather will result in cleaner, crisper and better
>colored tooling. In addition, properly casing the leather will allow you
>to tool a little longer than than just wetting it with a sponge and
>starting to tool. Wetting the leather with a sponge IS NOT casing!
>Additionally, the more you have to re-wet the leather, the more definition
>you lose in your tooling! The colors fade, beveling begins to raise and
>the piece doesn't look nice and crisp because it isn't any longer. If you
>can wet your leather once and get the whole thing tooled then that is
>fine. It will look nice. But you won't get the nice burnish produced when
>beveling and shading that properly casing your leather will give you. Nor
>will it cut as nicely! When I am tooling a piece that I know I can't finish
> without re-wetting several times, I break the tooling down to sections and
>keep everything I'm not tooling covered with plastic wrap until I am ready
>to move on to the next section. I am not saying you can't add moisture as
>you go...it's just that the more you do it, the more you will lose.
>think you will be sold. I hope this helps.... Bobby
> ----- Original Message ----- From: Diann Amberger To:
>flasah@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 5:45 AM
>Subject: Re: [flasah] DAVID IS New to Leatherworking
> I will tell you my experience with wetting/casing a belt like GB
>said. I
>put it in the sink, left it till all the bubbles were gone, got it out,
put
>it in a plastic bag overnight in the fridge, got it out the next morning,
>it was slimy, and wayyyyyyyyyyy to wet to do anything with. I had to let
>it dry for hours before I could work it. I will never do that again.
>Since then, I've made 2 belts and about to start on another one, and I
like
>David said, take a sponge and wet the leather, then I stamp, carve, or do
>whatever I want to with it. This crap of having to put things in
>containers overnight is just that. I'm sure I'll get lots of flak for
>saying that, but that's my experience, and I'm sure GB will say because
>I've only been doing this about 5 months that I don't know what I'm
talking
>about, but, that's what happened to mine. I would hate for you to have the
>same experinece.
>Diann
>
>At 05:28 AM 8/14/2009 -0700, you wrote:
>> David Said " For a sponge. The
>>sponge is used for wetting the leather (also known as casing). "
>>
>>NO IT IS NOT .
>>
>> THAT IS CALLED WETTING THE LEATHER WITH A SPONGE.
>>
>> TO DETER EVAPORATION LONG ENOUGH FOR THE CELLS IN THE LEATHER TO GET
>>EVENLY MOIST.
>>
>> Al Stohlman mentions for *** 24 HOURS *** in his Belts Galore book but
>>overnight is just fine.
>>
>>Find a piece of marble to use instead of Granite unless you have a way to
>>check for radioactivity in the Granite...' This Old House' PBS series
>>talked about this lately for counter tops... and the contact distance and
>>time touching a leather working stone is way higher than what would be
for
>>a kitchen counter top.
>>
>>Gregory B. Moody
>>
>>--- On Fri, 8/14/09, goldwings98se@sbcglobal.net <goldwings98se@sbcglobal.>
>>wrote:
>>
>>From: goldwings98se@sbcglobal.<goldwings98se@sbcglobal.>
>>Subject: Re: [flasah] Re: New to Leatherworking
>>To: flasah@yahoogroups.com
>>Date: Friday, August 14, 2009, 12:04 AM
>>
>> Ahhh. Ok so you got the 7 tools. Did you
>>get a mallet also? For the granite slab I also have a rubber pad that
>>I put under the slab to protect the table top your putting the slab on.
>>Since you got the 7 tools and I assume a mallet, do not use a regular
>>hammer, ever. You will destroy the tools and likely punch through most
>>leather. As to the patters, I forgot to address that earlier. There are
>>free patterns on the Tandy site and you will find a number of them
around
>>the internet. You mentioned a wristband and the pattern was to big. You
>>might try going to kinkos and using a photo copier and reduce the pattern
>>by say 5% each time until you get it to the right size. The books I
>>mentioned also have a number of patterns. You might want to pick up some
>>tracing film when your at Tandy. That will allow you to transfer the
>>pattern from paper to the film that you can then transfer to the
leather.
>> Also a suggestion. Anytime you buy a project kit from Tandy make a
>>outline of all the parts on some type of heavy bond paper or cardboard.
>>That way you will always have the pattern and if, for example, a piece
>>gets screwed up beyond repair you can get just the leather and re-cut
the
>>piece. Go to the grocery store and buy an ordinary cellulous sponge and
>>cut it into 4 squares. Of course all of this is only suggestion and your
>>true best bet is go to the Tandy store and talk to them. Do not be afraid
>>to walk in and tell them you know nothing and need help. Think about
>>taking a couple of their classes if your sons are really interested. If
>>your ever unsure about an answer they gave you then don't hesitate to
> post
>>the question on here. David Sawyer
>>K1DRS -.- .---- -.. .-. ...
>>1998 Pearl Chaparral Beige Goldwing SE
>>http://www.davesgol dwing.com ----- Original Message ----- From:
>>Mommyland@aol. com To: Flasah@yahoogroups. com Sent: Thursday, August
>>13, 2009 7:19 PM Subject: [flasah] Re: New to Leatherworking
>> I get the digest, so I'll try to reply to several of you in one
>> post.
>>> If you're reasonably near a Tandy store they have many options for
>>you. A new book that is directed at kids is "Kidcraft Leathercraft
>>Book," I recommend "Leather Crafting"
>> offer classes, as well as all materials needed.
>><>><<
>>>>Basic Leatherwork (part number 6008-00)
>>Leather Crafting (part number 61891-01)
>>Craftool Tech Tips (Part # 66056-00) by Al Stohlman. My opinion is most
>>any book by Al Stohlman is worth it and helpful.
>>
>><< I'll have to go with just the boys so we can talk to the
>>>>
>>If you have a granite countertop company nearby, you can ask for a
kitchen
>>sink cutout for a tooling surface. I have gotten some for boy scouts
>free, I
>>also got a couple larger ones for $1.00.
>>
>><< I'll have to check that out. Thanks!
>>
>>Kate
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database:
>>270.13.54/2300 - Release Date: 08/13/09 06:11:00
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database:
>270.13.56/2302 - Release Date: 08/14/09 06:10:00
What you say makes perfect sense. I guess I've just been too impatient to
get started carving and tooling. I'll try to slow down a little and use
your method and see if it works better for me. Thanks for sharing.
Diann
At 12:08 PM 8/14/2009 -0700, you wrote:
> Hi Diann, pretty wet piece of
>leather into the box and remove it next day and it would be ready to tool.
> ice chests, all which prevent ANY moisture from escaping....
>the plastic trash bags and zip loc bags. When you put your overly soaked
>leather in that sealed bag it did what it was meant to do....it preserved
>it....moisture and all! Your leather was not cased...it was just soaked!
>When I wet my leather, I pull it through a pan of water. I want to see
>bubbles coming out as it passes through the water.....but waiting until
>all the bubbles are gone is way too long. Once you start casing you will
>learn how much is enough. The same holds with learning what the leather
>should look like when properly cased. Almost it's natural color.....a cool
>feel to it when touched to your cheek....you will get the hang of it
>quickly once you get started. a little wetter going into the bag than
> what I want to begin tooling. The idea is for the moisture to be evenly
>distributed through the leather. Not wetter on the top than on the bottom.
>Properly casing your leather will result in cleaner, crisper and better
>colored tooling. In addition, properly casing the leather will allow you
>to tool a little longer than than just wetting it with a sponge and
>starting to tool. Wetting the leather with a sponge IS NOT casing!
>Additionally, the more you have to re-wet the leather, the more definition
>you lose in your tooling! The colors fade, beveling begins to raise and
>the piece doesn't look nice and crisp because it isn't any longer. If you
>can wet your leather once and get the whole thing tooled then that is
>fine. It will look nice. But you won't get the nice burnish produced when
>beveling and shading that properly casing your leather will give you. Nor
>will it cut as nicely! When I am tooling a piece that I know I can't finish
> without re-wetting several times, I break the tooling down to sections and
>keep everything I'm not tooling covered with plastic wrap until I am ready
>to move on to the next section. I am not saying you can't add moisture as
>you go...it's just that the more you do it, the more you will lose.
>think you will be sold. I hope this helps.... Bobby
> ----- Original Message ----- From: Diann Amberger To:
>flasah@yahoogroups.
>Subject: Re: [flasah] DAVID IS New to Leatherworking
> I will tell you my experience with wetting/casing a belt like GB
>said. I
>put it in the sink, left it till all the bubbles were gone, got it out,
put
>it in a plastic bag overnight in the fridge, got it out the next morning,
>it was slimy, and wayyyyyyyyyyy to wet to do anything with. I had to let
>it dry for hours before I could work it. I will never do that again.
>Since then, I've made 2 belts and about to start on another one, and I
like
>David said, take a sponge and wet the leather, then I stamp, carve, or do
>whatever I want to with it. This crap of having to put things in
>containers overnight is just that. I'm sure I'll get lots of flak for
>saying that, but that's my experience, and I'm sure GB will say because
>I've only been doing this about 5 months that I don't know what I'm
talking
>about, but, that's what happened to mine. I would hate for you to have the
>same experinece.
>Diann
>
>At 05:28 AM 8/14/2009 -0700, you wrote:
>> David Said " For a sponge. The
>>sponge is used for wetting the leather (also known as casing). "
>>
>>NO IT IS NOT .
>>
>> THAT IS CALLED WETTING THE LEATHER WITH A SPONGE.
>>
>> TO DETER EVAPORATION LONG ENOUGH FOR THE CELLS IN THE LEATHER TO GET
>>EVENLY MOIST.
>>
>> Al Stohlman mentions for *** 24 HOURS *** in his Belts Galore book but
>>overnight is just fine.
>>
>>Find a piece of marble to use instead of Granite unless you have a way to
>>check for radioactivity in the Granite...' This Old House' PBS series
>>talked about this lately for counter tops... and the contact distance and
>>time touching a leather working stone is way higher than what would be
for
>>a kitchen counter top.
>>
>>Gregory B. Moody
>>
>>--- On Fri, 8/14/09, goldwings98se@
>>wrote:
>>
>>From: goldwings98se@
>>Subject: Re: [flasah] Re: New to Leatherworking
>>To: flasah@yahoogroups.
>>Date: Friday, August 14, 2009, 12:04 AM
>>
>> Ahhh. Ok so you got the 7 tools. Did you
>>get a mallet also? For the granite slab I also have a rubber pad that
>>I put under the slab to protect the table top your putting the slab on.
>>Since you got the 7 tools and I assume a mallet, do not use a regular
>>hammer, ever. You will destroy the tools and likely punch through most
>>leather. As to the patters, I forgot to address that earlier. There are
>>free patterns on the Tandy site and you will find a number of them
around
>>the internet. You mentioned a wristband and the pattern was to big. You
>>might try going to kinkos and using a photo copier and reduce the pattern
>>by say 5% each time until you get it to the right size. The books I
>>mentioned also have a number of patterns. You might want to pick up some
>>tracing film when your at Tandy. That will allow you to transfer the
>>pattern from paper to the film that you can then transfer to the
leather.
>> Also a suggestion. Anytime you buy a project kit from Tandy make a
>>outline of all the parts on some type of heavy bond paper or cardboard.
>>That way you will always have the pattern and if, for example, a piece
>>gets screwed up beyond repair you can get just the leather and re-cut
the
>>piece. Go to the grocery store and buy an ordinary cellulous sponge and
>>cut it into 4 squares. Of course all of this is only suggestion and your
>>true best bet is go to the Tandy store and talk to them. Do not be afraid
>>to walk in and tell them you know nothing and need help. Think about
>>taking a couple of their classes if your sons are really interested. If
>>your ever unsure about an answer they gave you then don't hesitate to
> post
>>the question on here. David Sawyer
>>K1DRS -.- .---- -.. .-. ...
>>1998 Pearl Chaparral Beige Goldwing SE
>>http://www.davesgol dwing.com ----- Original Message ----- From:
>>Mommyland@
>>13, 2009 7:19 PM Subject: [flasah] Re: New to Leatherworking
>> I get the digest, so I'll try to reply to several of you in one
>> post.
>>> If you're reasonably near a Tandy store they have many options for
>>you. A new book that is directed at kids is "Kidcraft Leathercraft
>>Book," I recommend "Leather Crafting"
>> offer classes, as well as all materials needed.
>><>><<
>>>>Basic Leatherwork (part number 6008-00)
>>Leather Crafting (part number 61891-01)
>>Craftool Tech Tips (Part # 66056-00) by Al Stohlman. My opinion is most
>>any book by Al Stohlman is worth it and helpful.
>>
>><< I'll have to go with just the boys so we can talk to the
>>>>
>>If you have a granite countertop company nearby, you can ask for a
kitchen
>>sink cutout for a tooling surface. I have gotten some for boy scouts
>free, I
>>also got a couple larger ones for $1.00.
>>
>><< I'll have to check that out. Thanks!
>>
>>Kate
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database:
>>270.13.54/
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database:
>270.13.56/2302 - Release Date: 08/14/09 06:10:00
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