Leathercraft Tool

 

Thanks, Bob.  The cutting is not the problem (if you really know how to sharpen (and use) your knife.)  The depth comes from learning to differentiate what is proper for the particular project.  Most leathercrafters carve "too shallow."

This is a result of not learning how to sharpen and use the knife.

And we've both seen this,  when someone cannot cut and tool well, the first culprit is the tool.  So they feel,  "If I get the better tool, my work will be professional."

But, to become great, one must do a lot, over and over and over. 

There are quite a few great carvers on this list;  most don't talk; dang, I wish they would. 

But I do thank Bob and that nut whut swims with bears.

Dave

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From: Bob Park <hidepounder@cox.net>
To: flasah@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, January 14, 2011 9:16:00 AM
Subject: Re: [flasah] Swivel Knife blades and sharpening

 

I can make that cut easily. It's a simple matter of proper leather moisture and a sharp knife. The thing is, who would want to cut that deep when tooling? Half the thickness of the leather on a piece of skirting is way too deep!

Bobby

 

 

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Hank Staley

To: flasah@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 8:23 PM

Subject: RE: [flasah] Swivel Knife blades and sharpening

 

I have yet to see anyone cut 1/2 or 1/3 of the thickness of 15-16 oz leather with one cut. I have talked to some big men about this and none of them admitted being able to do it.....Hank

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To: flasah@yahoogroups.com
From: lewthered@yahoo.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 03:17:05 +0000
Subject: [flasah] Swivel Knife blades and sharpening

 

A. I don't care who made the (any) knife, it IS NOT sharp enough for me.
B. Swivel knives are special; none come sharp enough. Most factory knives DO NOT require a stone. BUT they do require "polishing." The edges should have a "mirror" finish.
C. Every master has a favorite technique. Based on "repetitive repetition" of a "boring" technique.
D. The easiest way to start is to practice holding and stropping the blade on a flat surface. On your marble/granite surface, pull your blade (away from the edge) with the flat edge FLAT against the stone.
This will teach you to hold it correctly.
E. Stropping REQUIRES equal strokes on EACH side of the blade (or you WILL change the angle. (Remember the angle was "assigned" by the maker. Swivel knife angles are not as sharp as "slicing" knives. They are designed to cut "into BUT NOT through" the leather.
F. They should "glide smoothly" through the leather (depending on pressure) cutting between 1/3 to 1/2 the thickness of the leather being carved. (Smoothly means "butter" smooth.) That alone gives the carver mastery of "cutting" the drawn design. And that alone will determine the quality of "decorative" cuts.
G. As the bar grounder is used by Pros to separate the best; decorative cuts separate the best. And practice mskes ALL THE DIFFERENCE.