Re: [flasah] Casing Bubbles
| Sounds good Bob... lets discuss it further to make sure everyone knows what we are each describing.. It sounds like you are saying that you divide your project into sections AND carve AND stamp THAT section Completely before uncovering the next area to work on.. ? Unlike what most people do .... which is to carve the entire piece, then do the successive stamping tools over the entire area....before going to the next tool... etc... ? First I want to repeat that I really appreciate that you are so interested in only wetting the surface once... that you would go to this amount of trouble... or modify your process to whatever it takes to accomplish that ... along with the spectacular results you are able to share in the pictures of your work really helps back up what I have been preaching for 49 years. Since my father also had some success in this field and NEVER glued anything to the back of any leather to work it.... I would still suggest that anyone that does have a problem with ' stretching ' their leather is working it too wet and / or choosing the wrong stamps for the situation. I did not say there was no way to preserve the casing for that many hours... my definition of cased being that the all the cells in the leather were allowed to become Evenly wet. So with that definition AND my desire not to ReWet the suface.... the application of moisture from the backside can in fact preserve the ' casing'... not the actual water extant during the covered period of time.... but the effect can be WiTHOUT adding water to the surface by spritzing from the backside.... and with a little practice one can anticipate the rate of needed additional water... As a note to potential peanut gallery typists..... if your leather developes a dry area on the surface you must put water on that area to keep from having a ' drying line' ..... this is not what we are talking about with regards to avoiding re plumping of the cells in the project after stamping impressions have been applied. The idea on a graph of the moisture content means that the amount of moisture curve always either stays level or goes down towards dry... never is there a blip going back up which would be the indicator of moisture which would be reabsorbed into the cells at the top layer and cause the decrese in crispness we work so hard to get in the first place. I forgot to address the ' practice piece' mentioned in the last post.... This is one of the great ideas not used nearly enough... have a piece of leather which was cased at the same time as your project and use it to test for proper moisture content... But in addition to that I suggest that having a practice piece next to your project is an excellant way to practice both carving and stamping IMMEDIATELY before you address your project... on carving.. particularly decorative cuts.... practice .... get ' warmed up' then do it to your project.... with stamps.... the angle you are going to hold the veiner and the amount you are going to move it with each hit can really be helped by a practice piece close by.... Ever since you described your wetting process I have been thinking about whether there is one way which might be better than the other....and why... This is in regards to bubbles during the wetting process.... My father always let the bubbles stop before taking out the leather... if submerged... In trying to figure out if physics favored one method over the other.... here is what I think. Since there is going to be a drying process for all these situations.. Holding the leather under the water just until the bubbles stop is not the same as soaking the leather... as evidenced by the immediate change in the surface color soon after withdrawal from the water.... I think the example of ' free water' at the roots of plants is a good example. You can dry out and kill a plant with the soil still ' feeling ' moist to the touch. There has to be ' excess' or ' free water' available for plant roots to drink. I think that leaving the leather under water only until the bubbles stop is a self limiting (not soaking ) indicator which also makes sure that the open areas between the cells has enough free water for the cells to be able to take it in and produce the desired result of even resistance and ability to hold an impression. Gregory B. Moody Daddysrulesleatherc DRules999 on youtube soon --- On Fri, 9/11/09, Bob Park <hidepounder@
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